Recently my husband and I visited a public exhibit presented by a local model railroading club. We just happened upon it while doing something else, and both of us were surprised at how much we enjoyed the exhibit. I guess all guys are little boys at heart, and he loved the mechanics of the set-ups and the authenticity of each piece of rolling stock and accessories. For myself, I was reminded of the hours I spent with dollhouses as a little girl, and, later, the hours I put into building miniature furniture as a home-based business. Even now, I collect miniature villages as discussed in one of my recent articles.
Of course I had to do a little searching on the Web, to find out more! So, for all of you MRR's out there (you know who you are!) and any other would-be collectors of toy trains and railroads here are a few of the dozens of outstanding links I came across.
Trainworld and Trainland - absolutely awesome commercial web site that is so chock-full of fun and information that I can't begin to describe it all. You just HAVE to visit!
Toy Train Operating Society The Toy Train Operating Society was founded in 1966 to further the toy train hobby and to promote fellowship among its members. National headquarters are in Pasadena, CA but there are regional clubs as well.
National Model Railroaders Association "The National Model Railroad Association is the largest organization devoted to the development, promotion,and enjoyment of the hobby of model railroading. The NMRA was founded in 1935 in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, making this our 64th year in service to the hobby of model railroading!" One very special feature is a Beginner's Page Project, which will help novices get their start with the basics of layout and building.
Sam, the Toy Train Man "Hi, I'm Sam the Toy Train Man. I am a private party, who has been collecting toy trains for over 25 years and I am the immediate past president of the Toy Train Operating Society - Southwestern Division, California's largest toy train club. Additionally, I am listed as a "reference to help you determine the monetary value of collectibles" by the Smithsonian Institution Conservation Analytical Laboratory. " A great site, interesting and well-presented.
Hatton Model Train Company in Liverpool, England. Hatton enthusiasts will love this resource for its extensive information and links, for other manufacturers as well.
Sunday, January 13, 2008
Saturday, January 12, 2008
Light at the End of the Tunnel
How many times have you entered a fellow model railroader's train room to be awe struck at the magnificent layout before your eyes. There're several hundred feet of meticulously constructed hand laid track, on tie plates even, track side signals changing colors when trains roll past and sound effects coming from every nook and cranny.
The model builder tells you that the layout represents the "ABC" railroad as it existed on July 9, 1947, and contains several scratch-built models of engines, cars and structures. They look great also, running through rolling countryside, deep mountain canyons and across spindly wooden trestles.
Then you happen to spy a train about to roll into view from one of the hand-carved tunnel portals dotting the layout. The headlight comes into view and the train exits, moving on to points west. However, your eye catches a glimpse of something else in the tunnel.
First you see a couple of red and black wires. Then there’s the familiar green colored form of a Tortoise switch machine. Further into the tunnel you see a couple of wooden braces, probably made from an old pallet picked up at a warehouse loading dock. Finally there are the risers supporting the hand-laid with code 40 weathered rail branch line. The impression of a super model railroad layout just went down the drain.
The real world scene inside the tunnel is one thing I didn’t want to be seen on my Cimarron and Tall Timber RR. I realized that when I switched to Sn3 scale a couple of years ago. The new scale allowed me to operate engines equipped with lighting and sound systems and I wanted to create realistic situations on my new layout. I wanted to see the headlight beam bouncing off the side walls and to hear the sound of the chugging engine diminish when it entered a tunnel and increase as it exited.
Lining model railroad tunnels is a relatively easy thing to accomplish. You can make your own liners with a plastic mold made by Woodland Scenics. They offer a curved top tunnel liner for single or double HO track. I purchased one at a railroad meet and poured my first casting the next day. Two castings are needed to make a complete lining. Taping the two together with duct tape, I placed the arch over my track and measured the clearances with the Sn3 NMRA Clearance Gauge. The gauge just fit inside the opening, only touching a bit at the top center. I merely removed some of the plaster with a Stanley Surform tool to clear my Sn3 equipment.
I made several castings from dental plaster, my main scenery material. When I’m casting liners, I don’t get much layout work accomplished because I’m always going back to my workshop, checking the castings and pouring another as soon as one is finished. When a casting was removed from the mold, I used the Surform tool to smooth the edges, remove some from top center and knock off any flash. They were taken outside and placed on an old window screen supported across a couple of bricks. The screen allows air to circulate completely around the castings so they dry quicker.
Before installing them on the layout, I sprayed the tunnel sides with Krylon gray paint, then did a hit and miss spraying with black, to suggest smoke and soot from the engine exhaust. This proved to be a mistake as it made the interior of the tunnels too dark. Under realistic conditions, they would probably be covered with soot, but the dark color reduced the effect I was hoping for with the layout. To correct the problem, I will dry brush some white paint on the linings to lighten them up a bit.
Installing the Woodland Scenics linings on the layout is fairly easy and since the tunnels didn't need to be lined beyond what could be seen through the portal, I didn't have to line the full length.
I used Homosote for a roadbed for all my track. It was cut 2 3/4" wide. There's about a half inch of subroadbed material extending out beyond the roadbed for the linings to rest upon. I held them in place, one at a time, drilled pilot holes through the plaster, and inserted 3 penny finishing nails through the holes into the Homosote. When the track curves, I’ve used the Surform tool to taper the top portion of the liner side to curve with the track. I used duct tape to hold the tops of the castings together. If I ever have to work on the track in a section that's covered with the tunnel castings, all I need to do is untape the pieces, pry out the nails and remove the castings.
I wanted to make my own liners for a few situations where the double track feature of the Woodland Scenics mold wouldn't work for me, since it was designed for HO scale. I had a neat rubber mold of a fairly straight piece of rock. I made a casting of it and carved out a 4" x 5 1/2" piece. I smoothed the surface irregularities from the castings to make it flatter, since the men boring the tunnels in real life would have knocked or blasted them off anyway. When I was happy with the casting, I made an RTV mold of it.
These castings are rectangular in shape and don’t offer any ceiling effect. I used them differently than the curved topped liners. These flat liners are supported on untempered Masonite that I ripped to width on my shop saw and fastened to the layout with sheet rock screws. The liners are secured to the Masonite with Liquid Nails.
I discovered that I had to add small strips of the Masonite to widen my subroadbed, especially on the curves, because the cab roof overhang from the K-36 and K- 37 engines I run hit the lining.
Since the tunnels will have portals, I didn’t try to hide the tops of them with rock faced castings. I merely put a piece of heavy cardboard across the tops of the castings. The tunnels are as dark as a tomb when viewed through the portal.
It took me about a month of pouring, coloring and gluing to install liners to my tunnels on the scenic portion of the layout. I’ve got about another fifteen feet of liners to pour and install, but I'm not in too big of a rush to complete them yet.
The liners are a nice visual effect to the layout. They also help the sound because when an engine enters one of the lined bores, the sound drops realistically, as in real life. It’s also a nice effect to look through one of the portals and see the light from the engine bouncing off the side walls as it approaches and blasts into the open.
Liners are cheap and easy to make and add that bit or realism missing from model railroad layouts across the land. Give them a try. I think you’ll like them.
The model builder tells you that the layout represents the "ABC" railroad as it existed on July 9, 1947, and contains several scratch-built models of engines, cars and structures. They look great also, running through rolling countryside, deep mountain canyons and across spindly wooden trestles.
Then you happen to spy a train about to roll into view from one of the hand-carved tunnel portals dotting the layout. The headlight comes into view and the train exits, moving on to points west. However, your eye catches a glimpse of something else in the tunnel.
First you see a couple of red and black wires. Then there’s the familiar green colored form of a Tortoise switch machine. Further into the tunnel you see a couple of wooden braces, probably made from an old pallet picked up at a warehouse loading dock. Finally there are the risers supporting the hand-laid with code 40 weathered rail branch line. The impression of a super model railroad layout just went down the drain.
The real world scene inside the tunnel is one thing I didn’t want to be seen on my Cimarron and Tall Timber RR. I realized that when I switched to Sn3 scale a couple of years ago. The new scale allowed me to operate engines equipped with lighting and sound systems and I wanted to create realistic situations on my new layout. I wanted to see the headlight beam bouncing off the side walls and to hear the sound of the chugging engine diminish when it entered a tunnel and increase as it exited.
Lining model railroad tunnels is a relatively easy thing to accomplish. You can make your own liners with a plastic mold made by Woodland Scenics. They offer a curved top tunnel liner for single or double HO track. I purchased one at a railroad meet and poured my first casting the next day. Two castings are needed to make a complete lining. Taping the two together with duct tape, I placed the arch over my track and measured the clearances with the Sn3 NMRA Clearance Gauge. The gauge just fit inside the opening, only touching a bit at the top center. I merely removed some of the plaster with a Stanley Surform tool to clear my Sn3 equipment.
I made several castings from dental plaster, my main scenery material. When I’m casting liners, I don’t get much layout work accomplished because I’m always going back to my workshop, checking the castings and pouring another as soon as one is finished. When a casting was removed from the mold, I used the Surform tool to smooth the edges, remove some from top center and knock off any flash. They were taken outside and placed on an old window screen supported across a couple of bricks. The screen allows air to circulate completely around the castings so they dry quicker.
Before installing them on the layout, I sprayed the tunnel sides with Krylon gray paint, then did a hit and miss spraying with black, to suggest smoke and soot from the engine exhaust. This proved to be a mistake as it made the interior of the tunnels too dark. Under realistic conditions, they would probably be covered with soot, but the dark color reduced the effect I was hoping for with the layout. To correct the problem, I will dry brush some white paint on the linings to lighten them up a bit.
Installing the Woodland Scenics linings on the layout is fairly easy and since the tunnels didn't need to be lined beyond what could be seen through the portal, I didn't have to line the full length.
I used Homosote for a roadbed for all my track. It was cut 2 3/4" wide. There's about a half inch of subroadbed material extending out beyond the roadbed for the linings to rest upon. I held them in place, one at a time, drilled pilot holes through the plaster, and inserted 3 penny finishing nails through the holes into the Homosote. When the track curves, I’ve used the Surform tool to taper the top portion of the liner side to curve with the track. I used duct tape to hold the tops of the castings together. If I ever have to work on the track in a section that's covered with the tunnel castings, all I need to do is untape the pieces, pry out the nails and remove the castings.
I wanted to make my own liners for a few situations where the double track feature of the Woodland Scenics mold wouldn't work for me, since it was designed for HO scale. I had a neat rubber mold of a fairly straight piece of rock. I made a casting of it and carved out a 4" x 5 1/2" piece. I smoothed the surface irregularities from the castings to make it flatter, since the men boring the tunnels in real life would have knocked or blasted them off anyway. When I was happy with the casting, I made an RTV mold of it.
These castings are rectangular in shape and don’t offer any ceiling effect. I used them differently than the curved topped liners. These flat liners are supported on untempered Masonite that I ripped to width on my shop saw and fastened to the layout with sheet rock screws. The liners are secured to the Masonite with Liquid Nails.
I discovered that I had to add small strips of the Masonite to widen my subroadbed, especially on the curves, because the cab roof overhang from the K-36 and K- 37 engines I run hit the lining.
Since the tunnels will have portals, I didn’t try to hide the tops of them with rock faced castings. I merely put a piece of heavy cardboard across the tops of the castings. The tunnels are as dark as a tomb when viewed through the portal.
It took me about a month of pouring, coloring and gluing to install liners to my tunnels on the scenic portion of the layout. I’ve got about another fifteen feet of liners to pour and install, but I'm not in too big of a rush to complete them yet.
The liners are a nice visual effect to the layout. They also help the sound because when an engine enters one of the lined bores, the sound drops realistically, as in real life. It’s also a nice effect to look through one of the portals and see the light from the engine bouncing off the side walls as it approaches and blasts into the open.
Liners are cheap and easy to make and add that bit or realism missing from model railroad layouts across the land. Give them a try. I think you’ll like them.
Low Cost Tips to Improve Your Model Railroad
I have a tip for other modelers that you may want to pass along. When I needed window signs for my corner drugstore and movie theater, I searched the internet for metal reproduction signs and movie posters. There are a number of sites that deal in nostalgic signs and old movie posters. These sites generally feature good, clean photos of their goods. Although the images are small on the web, when downloaded and reduced to N or HO scale, they look great!
It usually helps to print them out using a high-quality color laser printer. For most people, that may mean taking a diskette or CD to the local quick copy place, such as a Kinkos, to get the best reproduction. I recommend placing as many images on the sheet as possible, allowing space to trim them out. An 8½x11 sheet will give you dozens of signs, billboards and movie posters. As for paper stock, coated paper (like magazine stock) will keep the image sharper, but may not run through some copiers. Work with the copy center staff and they may be able to help on that.
To print on actual window glazing, I recommend Highland 904 overhead transparency film for laser printers. This film has a piece of paper attached to the edge that keeps the transparency from fogging as it goes through the machine. Regular transparency film will work, but usually the plastic fogs from the heat. Printing directly on the windows works well for things that are “painted” on the glass, such as a tavern name, but for posters hung in the window, the signs usually look too transparent to be effective. I tried painting the back of the transparency with white paint, but it didn’t look very realistic.
The advantage to using a color laser copier for these signs, whether printing on paper or plastic, is that the image won’t smear or rub off like it can with an inkjet printer.
One other suggestion … those nostalgia websites have a wealth of information when it comes to painting old Coke machines, gas pumps, and other antique items when you can’t quite remember how they looked. And if you’re into building your own scale vehicles, any Google search for that model year of vehicle will bring up dozens of websites with prototype photos of your vehicle. It’s an excellent way to see those stock paint jobs from the 40s, 50s and 60s.
It usually helps to print them out using a high-quality color laser printer. For most people, that may mean taking a diskette or CD to the local quick copy place, such as a Kinkos, to get the best reproduction. I recommend placing as many images on the sheet as possible, allowing space to trim them out. An 8½x11 sheet will give you dozens of signs, billboards and movie posters. As for paper stock, coated paper (like magazine stock) will keep the image sharper, but may not run through some copiers. Work with the copy center staff and they may be able to help on that.
To print on actual window glazing, I recommend Highland 904 overhead transparency film for laser printers. This film has a piece of paper attached to the edge that keeps the transparency from fogging as it goes through the machine. Regular transparency film will work, but usually the plastic fogs from the heat. Printing directly on the windows works well for things that are “painted” on the glass, such as a tavern name, but for posters hung in the window, the signs usually look too transparent to be effective. I tried painting the back of the transparency with white paint, but it didn’t look very realistic.
The advantage to using a color laser copier for these signs, whether printing on paper or plastic, is that the image won’t smear or rub off like it can with an inkjet printer.
One other suggestion … those nostalgia websites have a wealth of information when it comes to painting old Coke machines, gas pumps, and other antique items when you can’t quite remember how they looked. And if you’re into building your own scale vehicles, any Google search for that model year of vehicle will bring up dozens of websites with prototype photos of your vehicle. It’s an excellent way to see those stock paint jobs from the 40s, 50s and 60s.
Friday, January 11, 2008
How to Get Started in Model Railroading
ONE: Read. Read everything you can get your hands on. It's the quickest way to get up to speed and help you determine where you'd like to focus. If you're interested in real (prototype) railroads, there are thousands of books, many of which cover one railroad in great detail. For toy train collectors and operators, there are books outlining the various types and styles of toy trains produced over the years. And we've never met a garden railroader who didn't have at least a few gardening books and magazines along with all those railroad publications.
TWO: Make it a family activity. Turn off the television and spend the time working on the railroad with the rest of the family. Be sure to keep the activity age-appropriate for children.
THREE: Visit a hobby shop. There are over 2000 hobby shops around the country that sell model railroad products. Check your Yellow Pages for shops in your area. These are great places to shop and learn. Many hobby shops offer workshops for beginners. Go to greatesthobby.com and click on Assistance Directory to find a shop in your area.
FOUR: Attend a show. There's nothing like a day at a model train show to get those creative juices flowing. You'll get a chance to see layouts in every possible scale and gauge. The people manning the booths or operating the layouts at these shows are usually hobbyists themselves. They'll be more than willing to answer your questions. Check your local paper, the listings in Model Railroader magazine, or visit www.greatesthobby.com to find a show near you.
FIVE: Get it off the floor! Carpet fuzz can damage locomotive mechanisms. And it's easy to kick a train that's on the floor.Dirt and dust aren't as much of a problem as they used to be since most track included with today's train sets features pre-molded roadbed that holds the sections securely together and prevents dirt from reaching moving parts.Still, the best solution is a dedicated place for your model railroad. Your trains will be safer and operate better if they're elevated off the floor on a table. The trains will be easier to see, and building and running the railroad will be a whole lot easier on your back and knees!
SIX: Spruce up the surroundings. Consider installing additional lighting, finish the walls and ceiling (to cut down on dust and dirt, any model railroad's biggest enemies) and install nice shelves for those treasures that aren't on the layout. You'll enjoy spending more time with your hobby if you have a pleasant, well-lit space.
SEVEN: Start small. Don't be intimidated by huge layouts that appear in the magazines. Be inspired by them as you enjoy dreaming about your "someday" empire, but start off with something less ambitious. The reason is simple - a small layout or module can be completed fairly soon, so you can explore every aspect of the hobby while your enthusiasm is still fully charged.
EIGHT: Start with a published track plan. You'll be much better off if you follow a track plan from a book or magazine. You can assemble the track confident that the layout will actually fit.As you run trains on your first layout, you'll discover more and more about your interests. Maybe you like a lot of switching, or perhaps you prefer to watch the train rolling through the scenery. Some modelers like the challenge of running lots of trains at once. Eventually you can tailor that original layout to meet your needs.
NINE: Get a basic tool kit. You need only a few tools to be a model railroader. A hobby knife, screwdrivers, needle files, needlenose pliers, tweezers, and a scale rule will get you off to a good start.
TEN: Have fun. Lots of fun. The only true measure of success of any hobby is how much you enjoy participating in it. Model railroaders all over the world are having a blast doing what they love. Here's your chance to do the same.
TWO: Make it a family activity. Turn off the television and spend the time working on the railroad with the rest of the family. Be sure to keep the activity age-appropriate for children.
THREE: Visit a hobby shop. There are over 2000 hobby shops around the country that sell model railroad products. Check your Yellow Pages for shops in your area. These are great places to shop and learn. Many hobby shops offer workshops for beginners. Go to greatesthobby.com and click on Assistance Directory to find a shop in your area.
FOUR: Attend a show. There's nothing like a day at a model train show to get those creative juices flowing. You'll get a chance to see layouts in every possible scale and gauge. The people manning the booths or operating the layouts at these shows are usually hobbyists themselves. They'll be more than willing to answer your questions. Check your local paper, the listings in Model Railroader magazine, or visit www.greatesthobby.com to find a show near you.
FIVE: Get it off the floor! Carpet fuzz can damage locomotive mechanisms. And it's easy to kick a train that's on the floor.Dirt and dust aren't as much of a problem as they used to be since most track included with today's train sets features pre-molded roadbed that holds the sections securely together and prevents dirt from reaching moving parts.Still, the best solution is a dedicated place for your model railroad. Your trains will be safer and operate better if they're elevated off the floor on a table. The trains will be easier to see, and building and running the railroad will be a whole lot easier on your back and knees!
SIX: Spruce up the surroundings. Consider installing additional lighting, finish the walls and ceiling (to cut down on dust and dirt, any model railroad's biggest enemies) and install nice shelves for those treasures that aren't on the layout. You'll enjoy spending more time with your hobby if you have a pleasant, well-lit space.
SEVEN: Start small. Don't be intimidated by huge layouts that appear in the magazines. Be inspired by them as you enjoy dreaming about your "someday" empire, but start off with something less ambitious. The reason is simple - a small layout or module can be completed fairly soon, so you can explore every aspect of the hobby while your enthusiasm is still fully charged.
EIGHT: Start with a published track plan. You'll be much better off if you follow a track plan from a book or magazine. You can assemble the track confident that the layout will actually fit.As you run trains on your first layout, you'll discover more and more about your interests. Maybe you like a lot of switching, or perhaps you prefer to watch the train rolling through the scenery. Some modelers like the challenge of running lots of trains at once. Eventually you can tailor that original layout to meet your needs.
NINE: Get a basic tool kit. You need only a few tools to be a model railroader. A hobby knife, screwdrivers, needle files, needlenose pliers, tweezers, and a scale rule will get you off to a good start.
TEN: Have fun. Lots of fun. The only true measure of success of any hobby is how much you enjoy participating in it. Model railroaders all over the world are having a blast doing what they love. Here's your chance to do the same.
Model Railroading
Since you're reading this text, you already know we think model railroading is the greatest hobby in the world, but you may wonder exactly why we feel that way. In a word the answer is "diversity." Unlike other leisure-time activities, model railroading doesn't have a right and wrong way to do things. You can participate in the way that works best for you. And, since you've customized the hobby to your tastes and needs, you're definitely going to have a good time. Model railroading offers a range of fun and excitement. You'll get to work with your hands, work with your mind, and have a great time exercising your imagination as you express yourself through something uniquely your own. Some of the enjoyable activities that model railroaders choose from include: carpentry, electronics, painting, model building, engineering, historical research, and many, many more.But you don't have to do all, or even any, of these to be a model railroader. You can concentrate on those things you find most interesting now, secure in the knowledge that the others will still be there months and years from now patiently waiting if the mood should strike.
Different strokes for different folks
With such a broad hobby it should come as no surprise that there is more than one approach to model railroading. In fact, there are three major divisions of the hobby. The largest segment of the hobby is scale model railroading. Scale model railroaders set out to duplicate the locomotives and cars used by real railroads. But it doesn't stop with the trains. The goal of most scale modelers is the creation of a miniature world - a layout - featuring not only the trains but a complete and precise replica of their surroundings. Then there are model railroaders who are primarily interested in what we call "toy trains." Perhaps you had a Lionel or American Flyer train set when you were younger, or remember that your father or older brother had a train set up under the Christmas tree every year. Toy trains, which tend to be larger and less finely detailed than their scale counterparts, are better than ever. The traditional manufacturers have been joined by a legion of new companies offering a wide variety of exciting and colorful trains and accessories. Garden railroaders are the third group. They enjoy creating outdoor settings for their trains. Those trains are bigger than traditional toy trains and are rugged enough to stand up to outdoor use in all weather. A garden railroad offers a unique opportunity to create a setting that combines nature and machines.
Fun for all ages
Many model railroaders find a hobby they intended to be just for them ends up including the rest of the family. More and more married couples actively participate in the hobby together. And kids of all ages have always been fascinated by model trains. What better gift can you give your children or grandchildren than your time? In this world of computers and instant gratification you'll be giving your time as you share with them a lifetime hobby that teaches patience and the joys of creating something with your hands. The time you spend together building a railroad is true quality time - the kind of time yet another night staring at the television cannot possibly hope to match.
Movement sets it apart
The most appealing aspect of model trains of all sizes is the way they move. No other hobby combines so many interests and levels of participation with a chance to watch things move under their own power through a world you created. This booklet can only offer a glimpse into the exciting world of model trains. A lifetime of joys and challenges lies ahead. We hope you decide to join us on this magical journey. All aboard!
Different strokes for different folks
With such a broad hobby it should come as no surprise that there is more than one approach to model railroading. In fact, there are three major divisions of the hobby. The largest segment of the hobby is scale model railroading. Scale model railroaders set out to duplicate the locomotives and cars used by real railroads. But it doesn't stop with the trains. The goal of most scale modelers is the creation of a miniature world - a layout - featuring not only the trains but a complete and precise replica of their surroundings. Then there are model railroaders who are primarily interested in what we call "toy trains." Perhaps you had a Lionel or American Flyer train set when you were younger, or remember that your father or older brother had a train set up under the Christmas tree every year. Toy trains, which tend to be larger and less finely detailed than their scale counterparts, are better than ever. The traditional manufacturers have been joined by a legion of new companies offering a wide variety of exciting and colorful trains and accessories. Garden railroaders are the third group. They enjoy creating outdoor settings for their trains. Those trains are bigger than traditional toy trains and are rugged enough to stand up to outdoor use in all weather. A garden railroad offers a unique opportunity to create a setting that combines nature and machines.
Fun for all ages
Many model railroaders find a hobby they intended to be just for them ends up including the rest of the family. More and more married couples actively participate in the hobby together. And kids of all ages have always been fascinated by model trains. What better gift can you give your children or grandchildren than your time? In this world of computers and instant gratification you'll be giving your time as you share with them a lifetime hobby that teaches patience and the joys of creating something with your hands. The time you spend together building a railroad is true quality time - the kind of time yet another night staring at the television cannot possibly hope to match.
Movement sets it apart
The most appealing aspect of model trains of all sizes is the way they move. No other hobby combines so many interests and levels of participation with a chance to watch things move under their own power through a world you created. This booklet can only offer a glimpse into the exciting world of model trains. A lifetime of joys and challenges lies ahead. We hope you decide to join us on this magical journey. All aboard!
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